this post was submitted on 05 Feb 2025
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I'm in the process of getting my Home Assistant environment up and running, and decided to run a test: it turns out that my gaming PC (custom 5800X3D/7900XTX build) uses more power just sitting idle, than both of my storage freezers combined.

Background: In addition to some other things, I bought two "Eightree" brand Zigbee-compatible plugs to see how they fare. One is monitoring the power usage of both freezers on a power strip (don't worry, it's a heavy duty strip meant for this), and the other is measuring the usage of my entire desktop setup (including monitors and the HA server itself, a Lenovo M710q).

After monitoring these for a couple days, I decided that I will shut off my PC unless I'm actively using it. It's not a server, but it does have WOL capability, so if I absolutely need to get into it remotely, it won't be an issue.

Pretty fascinating stuff, and now my wife is completely on board as well; she wants to put a plug on her iMac to see what it draws, as she uses it to hold her cross-stitch files and other things.

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[–] [email protected] 1 points 19 hours ago* (last edited 19 hours ago)

100W while idling seems like way too much?

Edit: maybe not, they list 75W for whole system idle here with 5800X3D.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

What unhealthy eating habit are you indulging in at 21:45?

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

Current spike from both freezers starting up

[–] [email protected] 6 points 1 day ago

If it gets the wife approval you know you are on to something

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 day ago

I recently bought a Mac Mini because music production on Linux had me fighting my tools more than using them. My Linux box is a 7800x3d/7800xtx. The Mini idles at 4w, while the 78000xtx alone idles closer to 50w. I use the mini for everything non-gaming now.

[–] [email protected] 25 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Chest freezers are exceptionally energy efficient. It's not a very good comparison.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

Ah, but only one is a chest freezer 😉

That, and I used to have a freezer that was a power suck.

[–] [email protected] 15 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) (3 children)

I discovered a similar issue. PC desk was using 8-9W when the PC was turned OFF! My power strip was taking a bit under 1W (the little light, old), two smart bulbs as well but I'll allow those losses. An older Logitech speaker setup (2+1) was taking 6-7W, turned off! Crazy.. and illegal if it were made today (in EU). So this is completely wasted energy in my opinion.. started disconnecting the whole desk now.

For comparison, my home server is averaging 7-8W, turned on all the time:

I also learned that PC's draw a lot of power lol. I used to sit on my PC all day, now I know how much it cost. Even the monitor turning off splits the power draw by half.

[–] [email protected] 6 points 2 days ago

Older speakers like that use always on transformers, constantly wasting energy to keep the core energized. You're correct those cannot be made any more, they must use efficient switch mode supplies.

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[–] [email protected] 58 points 3 days ago (5 children)

What kind of freezers are they? I hear that top loading freezers are quite efficient because the cool doesn't escape when it gets opened like a front loading one.

[–] [email protected] 32 points 3 days ago

That's true; once everything inside is brought down to temp, they use very little power to stay cold.

My regular fridge uses ~500-800wh a day (depending on how much it got opened). My chest freezer though, uses ~200wh/day pretty consistently.

[–] [email protected] 14 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (4 children)

One is a smaller chest freezer, about 3 feet tall, probably 6 or 7 cubic feet if I had to guess. The other is a Hamilton Beach upright freezer from Costco. Both are full, so that helps with keeping them cold.

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[–] [email protected] 6 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) (1 children)

Cool!

Just be cautious that you don't over-optimize for power. I ran around my house w/ a Kill-a-watt meter checking everything and made some tweaks, and I still don't think it has paid for itself since power costs are so low here ($0.12-0.13/kWh, so 10Wh 24/7 < $1/month), and some of the things I tried doing made my life kinda suck. So I backed off a bit and found a good middleground where I got 80% of the benefit w/o any real compromises.

For example, here's what I ended up with:

  • put desktop to sleep - power draw is negligible, and I don't need to keep typing my FDE password to use it
  • "upgraded" NAS from old 2009 HW to my old gaming PC HW (1st gen Ryzen) - cut power draw in half, but I had to buy some RAM; will take years to pay off w/ electricity savings, but it has much better performance in the meantime
  • turn off work laptop - was drawing ~20W; I WFH MThF, so I leave it on Th night for convenience, but have it sleep M-W and turn it off Friday

I could probably cut a bit more if I really try, but that would be annoying.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Yeah, my power bill is pretty reasonable already, considering my large family plus all the electronics I run. I just like seeing what everything is doing as a matter of curiosity.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Oh yeah, as a hobby, it's absolutely fun. I like tinkering with all kinds of things.

My point was to just be careful since it's not necessarily going to be worth the expense and time.

I've been considering getting a breaker-level power monitor to watch for spikes. It's a bit more expensive (hundreds of dollars), but it measures the types of things I'm interested in. My kid flipped on our gutter heaters (I never use them) and shot our electricity bill to the moon for a couple months until I noticed. If I had a home energy monitor, I would've noticed a crazy energy spike and that might have paid for itself.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 days ago

Yeah, I never expect a financial ROI for hobbies; the ROI for that is nothing more than my own enjoyment.

[–] [email protected] 37 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (3 children)

Have you considered putting your gaming pc in one of the storage freezers? /s

[–] [email protected] 25 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (3 children)

Perfect, I don't need to run the fans anymore!

Seriously though - we have 5 kids, and feeding the little shits is expensive, so we freeze a lot of things for storage. I thought for certain the freezers would be power hogs compared to an idling PC, but I was very surprised to be proven wrong.

Next up... Measuring my server cluster 😬

[–] [email protected] 37 points 3 days ago (8 children)

Measuring my server cluster

Personally, I just don't ask questions I don't want the answer to.

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[–] [email protected] 30 points 3 days ago (14 children)

Yeah, man, getting into Home Assistant and messing with energy monitoring did more than thousands of chastising TV segments to get me to fully shut down my computers.

Who gives a crap about gaming use power consumption, give me idle benchmarks, you cowards. Do you even know how kWh work?

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[–] [email protected] 12 points 2 days ago (4 children)

Couple of thoughts:

  1. That smart plug may not be rated to the max wattage when GPU and CPU are at full blast. Be careful, because that could be an expensive mistake. Place a surge protector between the smart plug and the PC to be safe. Also run the PC full tilt for a while and make sure the smart plug doesnt get warm. If it does, fores have been known to start from those.

  2. Sounds like you know this with WoL, but suspend is your friend 😉 If the gaming PC is linux and you run into suspend issues, let me know, I've seen 'em all.

[–] [email protected] 12 points 2 days ago (3 children)

The plugs are rated for 1800W each. Should be fine. I hit 670W a bit earlier, running Furmark VK and Cinebench R23 multi-core simultaneously for shits and giggles.

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[–] [email protected] 7 points 2 days ago (3 children)

Place a surge protector between the smart plug and the PC to be safe.

What benefit does this serve in this situation?

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[–] [email protected] 0 points 1 day ago

Questionable approach since a cheap 'surge protector' could very well start a fire

[–] [email protected] 5 points 2 days ago (6 children)

how do you deal with kb+trackpad not working after wake?

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[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Yeah I made a similar discovery after installing a Shelly Switch with Power Metering. The monitors and their brightness make a huge difference as well when in or near idle (for photography, so not a surprise). I've also implemented an "anti-standby" function, so the switch opens whenever the current falls under a specific threshold.

For the WoL, since I have a switch, I configured my BIOS so it would turn on after power loss. Now I can start to boot up from afar :)

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 days ago

That's certainly one way to do it...

[–] [email protected] 17 points 2 days ago (4 children)

It has never occured to me my whole life to not suspend or shut down computers overnight. It wakes up in like 2 seconds why wouldnt you, even if it used only an extra 1W

[–] [email protected] 17 points 2 days ago (4 children)

You must be pretty young, because back in the dark days of spinning HDDs a computer would take 5+ minutes to boot.

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[–] [email protected] 9 points 2 days ago (2 children)

The problem I have with this I put the PC to sleep overnight every night - and like clockwork, Windows wakes it back up sometime overnight to do.. Something.

I've been diagnosing the issue for years - checking wake timers, switching hardware devices permissions to wake the system off. I might fix it for a few months and then a new Windows update comes along and it's back to its usual routine of waking itself.

Looking forward to seeing if it persists with Linux when I move at the end of support period for Win10 later this year.

[–] [email protected] 11 points 2 days ago (2 children)

Looking forward to seeing if it persists with Linux

I have never had what you described happen in my past 15 years of using linux, i hope you find your way around things, linux is dope once you get used to it.

My PC goes down from 70W idle to 2W when suspended. I also have a master slave power strip, that turns of all my peripherals (speakers, lights, audio interface, etc) when the PC drops below 10W so that saves some extra energy.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 days ago

Windows is gonna Windows. Even if you did track down the issue your one update from a borked system or square one when they alter the setting and relocate it on their own accord.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

Yeah I use Linux for my servers and my HTPC, but I never really hibernate or sleep those so I had no idea if it might occur there too. It's great to hear this is not likely to be an issue - thanks

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

Did you check the bios?

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[–] [email protected] 16 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Those storage freezers are doing nothing the vast majority of the time. Not really a fair comparison.

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[–] [email protected] 12 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) (6 children)

Yeah, energy monitoring ruined several things for me. Can't let my PC idle anymore, can only turn on the dishwasher when the sun is shining, need to explain regularly to my wife, why our home network and server infrastructure consume 130 Watts per hour, have to automate all plugs with standby devices connected...

The damn freezer consumes only 400 Watts per day while Network infrastructure, server, Wallpanels and KNX consume 3 Kilowatts, I wish I would have never learned this.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 days ago (2 children)

Just fyi, Watts is a measure of power, and WattHours is power over time. So your home network and server consume 130w, which would be 130wh after an hour, or 3120wh after a day. The chest freezer would be 400wh in a day, rather than 400w in a day.

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