this post was submitted on 01 Nov 2023
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Do It Yourself
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I'm having a bit of a tough time making out the bevel in your second picture - the angle looks steep but not unreasonably so. Are you flat filing the backs of the cutting faces to work the burr? Here is a guide to determine the angle you should be aiming for.
I love flat files for sharpening larger blades like my axes and hatchets (they're still finished with a stone) but tend to reach for a sharpening stone for smaller blades like scissors and secateurs. The wider face of the stone makes it easier to keep a consistent angle even without the use of a jig.
Thanks. That's helpful! I don't have a stone just yet. The angle seemed a little steeper than I expected but I couldn't tell if flattened out nearer the handle. I did some work on the back but not much, it's not concave on the backs.
It's normal for scissors to have different angles on the thumb arm than the finger arm, depending on their intended use. You shouldn't have to work the backs too much, but they should be revisited every so often during filing/honing to work the burr that is formed by the sharpening. I personally feel that a stone is more economical but you can finish hone with high grit automotive sandpaper too. If you've got an old leather belt, some scrap wood, and some glue you could make yourself a strop and only need some polishing compound. The finish work with a strop removes the burr, leaving the sharpened edge - if you don't remove the burr your tool is likely to lose the edge more quickly.
Thank you. I meant on the same blade, the angle looked like it could be steeper at one end than at the other. But it seemed odd that it would come like that or wear like that over time? So maybe I was imagining it I'm not sure
I see what you mean - is it possible that you're a "back third" cutter? I tend to cut close to the lever end of scissors and will have to touch that section up well before the point end needs any maintenance.