gcgallant

October 13, 2024

• Brush: AP Shave Co Summer 28mm G5C

• Razor: Dovo Bismarck 6/8" Full Hollow Round Point

• Lather: Wholly Kaw - Cedrati - Soap

• Toner: Thayers - Lavender - Toner

• Aftershave: Noble Otter - Jack - Aftershave

2 passes. Face lather. Excellent shave.

Wonderful Sunday shave today. I love the citrus and woody notes of Cedrati and they go well with the higher key citrus notes in Jack. I have always loved the Siero base, which helped make the mechanics of this shave top-tier.

The Bismarck (Iron Chancellor) performed magnificently! It currently has a rather boutique edge (Koma nagura on Black Arkansas), but this razor performs well regardless of what stones are used to finish the edge. The razor has a 0.1337 radian sharpening angle that results in a bevel angle of 15.3 degrees. We're in (and slightly narrower than) Filarmónica bevel angle territory here. Now, I did a little work on the spine of my razor, as I did with @[email protected]'s Bismarck, but I doubt that this work changed the razor's sharpening geometry significantly. In my experience, razors that have sharpened bevel angles in the 15-16 degree range provide extraordinary shaves.

I started searching for a W&B like that after seeing yours. I used mine a couple of days ago. Awesome piece of history.

I consider Stirling as a dependable option. I have a bunch of tubs of it that I know I will never finish nor sell.

October 12, 2024

• Brush: Wald Stratos Goldvein 29mm A1 Fan

• Razor: Parker 510 13/16" Square Point Full Hollow

• Lather: Los Jabones de Joserra - Noir - Soap

• Toner: Thayers - Rose - Toner

• Aftershave: Noble Otter - Cerberus - Aftershave

2 passes. Face lather. Excellent shave.

This is a new soap that just came in. It has notes of Cypress, vetiver, smoked incense and musk and is supposed to have an aroma that is dark, humid, and smoky. It is definitely not overpowering in scent strength, but the scent is extremely well blended. The soap base is extremely dense and low structure. It is super slick and great for straights.

Already there, except I think in terms of sharpening angle and save the multiplication step. Since you have a penchant for maths, you'll be soon to follow :)

Yes, that’s the sharpening angle. The bevel is formed by laying the razor on the stone at the spine and edge. The razor is sharpened by removing material (abrading) until the centerline from the spine through the edge intersects with the stone’s surface. For a razor, that angle is typically less than ten degrees and within the small angle approximation range. If I have my phone handy, I just use the calculator. Much more convenient than a slide rule :)

I can't say enough good things about AG 1889. I used it all of August. It's really worth getting a decant of Guerlain Jicky if you can. The soap and splash lean towards the fragrance, but the real thing lets you know why it has been around so long.

October 11, 2024

• Brush: Oumo Compass Bonfire 27mm Emperor-2

• Razor: Wade & Butcher 7/8" Fine India Steel

• Lather: Wholly Kaw - Fougère Bouquet - Soap

• Toner: Thayers - Lavender - Toner

• Aftershave: Unilever - Brut - Aftershave

3 passes. Face lather. Excellent shave.

I haven't done a 3-pass shave in long a while. To quote my friend @[email protected] : Close and comfortable shave, no nicks or irritation.

Btw, I determine the bevel angle by just calculating the sharpening angle and doubling it. On all the razors I’ve seen, the sharpening angle falls well within the range where the small angle approximation for sine works. Typically, I just do the trig in my head.

Once I started paying attention to sharpening geometry, I started to realize why I like certain razors so much. I would be very interested in your experience on this as well. I’ve realized the ways in which I adapt to razors with wider bevel angles and this tips me off to actually measure them.

Alma was on my list, along with SV Opuntia and Ethos Succès.

I have some soaps from Los Jabones de Joserra coming. Have you tried any of Joserra’s soaps?

October 10, 2024

• Brush: Wald Stratos Haunter 29mm A1

• Razor: Koraat 6/8" Full Hollow

• Lather: WestMan Shaving - Nirvana - Soap

• Toner: Thayers - Lavender - Toner

• Aftershave: WestMan Shaving - Nirvana - Aftershave Balm

2 passes. Face lather. Excellent shave.

My submission for Theme Thursday. I figured I'd see @[email protected] using it as well.

Sadly, yes. I’ve known for a long time that typical razor bevel angles fall between 15 and 20 degrees. I tinkered with this, myself, a couple of years ago. I reduced the spine width on my Gold Dollar to change the sharpened bevel angle from just over 20 degrees to 18 degrees. Took a long time. The feel of the razor improved considerably.