this post was submitted on 24 Jan 2024
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From this post, I got the idea to remove and replace the wheels altogether using a hacksaw.

Here's what it looks like right now. My problem now is that I can't remove the leftover metal shaft from the caster wheel.

I've tried using some lubricant and hammering it with a screwdriver but it didn't budge.

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[–] [email protected] 18 points 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago) (1 children)

The amount of work (parts, tools and time) required to do a good job repairing that isn't worth it. Just buy a whole new caster wheel.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 9 months ago (2 children)

Are the stems on the caster wheels standard in length?

[–] [email protected] 8 points 9 months ago (1 children)

Yes but if it's anything like office chairs casters, there are 2 standard sizes (of course), the 10 and the 11 mm

[–] [email protected] 2 points 9 months ago

Yes but if it’s anything like office chairs casters, there are 2 standard sizes (of course), the 10 and the 11 mm

Unfortunately, I need a 10mm caster stem while most if not all of the caster wheels available have 11mm stems. (Philippines, no Amazon)

[–] [email protected] 6 points 9 months ago

Yes. Replace the whole caster. Whats not standard is the diameter of the wheels, which for luggage, i would keep them the same size or a similar small size. To keep it from being too top heavy and to make sure it fits in the overhead compartments of a plane. Double check your casters to make sure they have standard stems/the same ones as the ones you want to purchase.

[–] [email protected] 15 points 9 months ago (1 children)

Once you take it apart, you’re unlikely to be able to buy new wheels. Better to replace the whole unit - I did this just last week with an office chair.

Pull the entire black part out of the gray part but don’t throw it away yet. Bring the old castors to the hardware store to check the size and shape when you buy new castors. In Australia, new ones are sold like this:

https://www.bunnings.com.au/move-it-50mm-black-hooded-office-chair-castor-2-pack_p3940114

You should be able to find something similar where you are.

[–] [email protected] 6 points 9 months ago

Can I recommend rollerblade wheels? AKA inline skate wheels.

You can upgrade while repairing.

[–] [email protected] 8 points 9 months ago

I would expect that the wheel shaft has a flange or maybe some knurling on it to prevent it from coming loose. You will probably need to drill it out. I wish you the best of luck on your journey, you will learn a lot about how things are made. I also expect that this will end with you buying a new castor or a new suitcase.

[–] [email protected] 6 points 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago) (1 children)

go to a big box store. go to the metal bar stock section- usually they're in the pick-and-choose nuts and bolts area. Alternatively, just ask. (I like local hardware stores, they''ll have it too, somewhere. better selection of pick-and-choose hardware, too.)

Get some smooth rod slightly smaller in diameter than the rod there. use the rod to knock it out- either in a press (if you have access to one) or by setting it in some kind of clamp and pounding on the rod with a hammer.

if their only options for bar stock are expensive, you can get a bolt that's also slightly undersized and use that.

for the record, the wheel looks like it's an absolute gonner, so you're probably going to have to get more parts anyhow.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 9 months ago (3 children)

is it okay to borrow the press in the hardware?

if not what kind of clamps do I need? a Vise grip?

[–] [email protected] 5 points 9 months ago

I would suggest a bench vise. The beefier the better (but be careful not to clamp down too hard on the plastic.) One way to do it would be to use your typical woodworking clamps c-clamps, or whatever to press it against the top of a vice or a pair of blocks split enough to let the bolt/pin to fall through. the big thing is you don't want it flying anywhere when you start applying force.

a hydraluic press would push it out with more control on such a set up, but most people generally don’t have them. that's why I suggested the hammer-and-rod set up. what that will do is let you apply force diretly to the pin; and with it slightly undersized, it won't replace the pin.

Generally the entire caster wheel assembly would be replaced instead of specific parts of the assembly. these kinds of wheels are not made to be taken apart to be repaired- which is why you’re having all this difficulty. amazon has plenty of kits- but try and match brand to brand.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 9 months ago (1 children)

I don't think I've ever seen 'vise' written down before, I always just assumed it was spelled 'vice'! You learn something new every day

[–] [email protected] 5 points 9 months ago

British spelling is vice.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 9 months ago

I suspect a press is your best option, which is really a slightly more controlled variation of your hammering it with a screwdriver effort.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 9 months ago

Drill it out. Start with say a 2.5 mill and go up in size until the metal is gone

[–] [email protected] 4 points 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago)

I assume the metal axis is probably molten firmly into the plastics with some kind of knurling. So probably you are going to break the plastics if you are trying to push it through. As suggested by others, a solution may be to try to drill it out. The other option I see, is to remove the whole black part and replace it by new rollers which have standardized shafts are when dedicated for furniture.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 9 months ago

I don't have an answer, but I can smell the grease from here.